got up, and after breakfast went surfing! we went to the beach just south of yesterdays lesson and there were a tonne of surfers out, so we tried to veer clear of them. caught a few and rode on my belly, and i managed to stand for about 2m. still a tonne of fun!
we had to end that session early though to check out of our room. tried playing some 2 player card games, one of them being "spit" (apparently) where we probably calvin-balled it and made up a lot of rules as we went. we also tried 2 player asshole with continuous play and poker hands and that was dismal.
then surf session 2 with christophe! we paddled out to a point and pretty quick i was able to catch a wave that i rode all the way in, even starting to experiment with carving at the end. it rocked. rest of the session was a little tougher because we were far out and i am not the best gauge of waves, or where to be to catch them. paddling is hard as hell. the core body workout as well as back is incredible!caught the bus into biarritz centre as recommended by christophe and after showering in hotel anjou, i took off to get info on some game that is big in this region (looks like "hailai" but they call it something i have not figured out yet). we will go tomorrow to check out the outdoor game. i also bought my first souvenir for myself... a billabong biarritz hoodie :). met up with nusbaum and we went walking around town, and then to get dinner and dessert.
watched the sunset which was so nice, and then back to hostel.
other:
- antibiotics done today!
No comments:
Post a Comment